Suit: Three Kinds - Drape, Continental & Sack

Expertly tailored suits come in two general styles or cuts: Drape or Continental. There is also a third style, but it is not nearly as attractive or well tailored, the Sack.

Drape Cut Suit -
Drape is my favorite suit cut. It was developed by the English, but have expanded from there. It has soft, light or unpadded “natural” shoulders, side vents an hourglass shape and a high waist on the jacket. It can be single or double breasted. The term Drape refers to how the suit is built. The structure of a Drape jacket comes from layers of fabric on the chest and back that drape down from the shoulders. These layers of cloth keep the jacket full in the chest, but allow for freedom of movement and a soft, supple look. This jacket will follow the body and move with the individual. Some feel that construction of a Drape cut suit requires the most skill as a tailor. Drape suits were worn by Fred Astaire and Duke of Windsor and others with impeccable taste.

Continental Cut Suit -
Continental cut is originated in Italy by Roman tailors, but have expanded from there. It has its history in military uniforms and is identified by it very structured design. Continental suits have structured and defined shoulders, typically high & more squared shoulders. A true Continental cut will be close-fitting with a defined waist line. The skirt of the jacket can either flare out or hang straight. The suit has a solid and structured look and in a classic model is ventless. It will have very clean lines in the chest and back, but will limit the range of motion. This suit was popularized on wall street and “serious” business and is often called a power business suit. Donald Trump will only wear a Continental cut suit as will other power brokers of business.

Sack Cut Suit -
Sack cut suits are least attractive of all the suits. They are shapeless and are common for on the rack suits. The jackets flow straight down from the shoulders in a shapeless sack like shape. The body of the suit is roomy and typically has a single center vent. Classic sack suits are three-button suits, but now they are made in many different variations. The sack suit was originated in America by large retailers who needed to make a suit that fit everyone. J. Press is one of the most high profile makers of the Sack cut suit. The modern version of the sack suit is now a little more tailored, but it is still designed to fit the masses. It is the least flattering of the three suits, since it is designed to fit everyone it in turn fits no one.

Suit: Three kind of Vents

When looking to buy a suit, you should notice the kind of vents the suit has. The vents are often forgotten but can either help out your physique or hurt it. They are also a signal for how dressy a suit is. Don't over look the vents. The three kinds of vents are: Center Vent, Side Vents and No Vent.

Center Vent - This is the cut up the middle of the jacket. It is typically found on the more casual blazer and suits. It is a very American cut, but offers little benefit to your figure. Center vents are the most common vent, so every closet will have them. Despite the commonality, they offer no benefit to the physique of the wearer. Just make sure that when the jacket is on that the center vent is closed. An open vent means that the jacket does not fit right.

Side Vents - are found on either side of the back panel of the jacket. Side vents offer a great range of motion and typically found on more modern suits. The English prefer the side vents as they are considered more proper and formal. Side vents also benefit most men's physique. Men with extra girth should always opt for side vents as the two vertical lines in the back of the suit are slimming. Side vents also allow the back of the suit to lay flat, no matter the body type. I always try to buy my full suits with side vents.

No Vent or Ventless - Jackets with no vents provide a very slimming shape to the wearer, but limit the range of motion. The look when standing is clean and sleek. It is a formal look, often used in Tuxedos. If you don't mind the restricted movement, then a ventless jacket can help any man look slimmer, especially a hefty man. That being said, I will always opt for the side vents as the range of motion is an important factor to me.

Remember to check the vents before buying your next suit.