Traditional Design in a Unique Fabric

While at Michael's Custom Clothiers this weekend I stumbled across a beautiful fabric made out of Worsted Wool (50%), Linen (30%) & Silk (20%).  The fabric came in a multitude of designs and colors but my favorite were the houndstooth and herringbone.  They were both tan and navy a striking combination.  Perfect for warm weather, or year around in a warm weather city like Los Angeles.

Personally, I would opt for the herringbone design to be made into a suit and the houndstooth to be made into an odd jacket.  Either option would be quite fun to be seen made into a finished piece.  The fabrics were part of a Savile Row "Island" collection.  Neither textile would be seen in on the rack made to wear clothing.  Yet another reason to get your suits & jackets made bespoke, selection.

Bespoke Shirts

Yesterday I had the fortune to go to Michael's Custom Clothiers and order six shirts for my wardrobe.  These six shirts were at a very reasonable price of 440 which comes to $73 per shirt.  These shirts are custom made and will fit my body type.  They are all meant to be worn for business and with ties, but can be worn without a tie.

I have a thick neck, 17 inches, but like my shirts to be slim fitting in the arms, chest and waist.  The medium size store bought shirts that I prefer, typically come with a 15 inch neck, much to small for me to button and wear a tie with.  The shirts big enough for my neck look like moo moos on my frame.  This means that I must purchase custom shirts to achieve the desired look.

I went in and picked the fabrics and the design elements for these shirts.  They are all going to barrel cuff and most with a medium spread collar.  One, in a light blue oxford cloth, has a button down collar.  Another in a white and subtle light mint stripe, pictured, will have a spread collar.  I also picked up some striped and checked shirts as well, including a banker stripe, also shown.

These shirts will be finished in the next month or two.  When they are finished I will for sure show off the finished product on here.  With bespoke shirts you can also choose the type of collar, cuff, monogram and pocket or no pocket, as well as any other customization you prefer.  Custom shirts are certainly a great option for any man with unusual dimensions that ready to wear shirts can not accommodate.  Try some out, they can help out your wardrobe too.

Bespoke Suits Everyone Can Afford

Since we all know that suits are all about fit, the best way to achieve a perfect fit is by ordering a hand made suit.  Bespoke suits can fit all types of bodies and will make you look better than even the most expensive designer suits.  In most cases considerably better, since almost no body types fit designer suits.

The one problem with bespoke suits is the cost.  Unfortunately, most men can not afford to only have bespoke suits in their wardrobe.  Even though a few bespoke suits will go much farther than a wardrobe of ill fitting off the rack suits.  Even man needs bespoke.

Well finally there is an opportunity for every man to obtain bespoke.  Indochino, offer bespoke suits tailored and made in China for $250 to $500.  They offer bespoke suits, blazers, slacks, shirts and ties.  They even have bespoke overcoats, which are incredibly attractive.  Each suit comes in limited quantities, which probably holds down costs.  The suits range from the conservative to the fashion forward.  They even make bespoke tuxedos, which is a much better option than renting, in every possible way.

The suits are all slimmer European cut.  They look to be Drape cut suits, but it is hard to tell, most likely they are a slim fit Continental cut made to look like a Drape cut.  The pants are also slim.  You just need to provide various measurements to Indochino and they will make it to your specifications.  I recommend going to a local tailor and having them measure you for a minimal cost, so that you know the measurements have been done correctly.

I have not tried making a suit with Indochino yet, but I certainly would like to try it out.  Let me know if you use the service, so we can report on the success or possible failure.

Happy suiting.

Suit: Three Kinds - Drape, Continental & Sack

Expertly tailored suits come in two general styles or cuts: Drape or Continental. There is also a third style, but it is not nearly as attractive or well tailored, the Sack.

Drape Cut Suit -
Drape is my favorite suit cut. It was developed by the English, but have expanded from there. It has soft, light or unpadded “natural” shoulders, side vents an hourglass shape and a high waist on the jacket. It can be single or double breasted. The term Drape refers to how the suit is built. The structure of a Drape jacket comes from layers of fabric on the chest and back that drape down from the shoulders. These layers of cloth keep the jacket full in the chest, but allow for freedom of movement and a soft, supple look. This jacket will follow the body and move with the individual. Some feel that construction of a Drape cut suit requires the most skill as a tailor. Drape suits were worn by Fred Astaire and Duke of Windsor and others with impeccable taste.

Continental Cut Suit -
Continental cut is originated in Italy by Roman tailors, but have expanded from there. It has its history in military uniforms and is identified by it very structured design. Continental suits have structured and defined shoulders, typically high & more squared shoulders. A true Continental cut will be close-fitting with a defined waist line. The skirt of the jacket can either flare out or hang straight. The suit has a solid and structured look and in a classic model is ventless. It will have very clean lines in the chest and back, but will limit the range of motion. This suit was popularized on wall street and “serious” business and is often called a power business suit. Donald Trump will only wear a Continental cut suit as will other power brokers of business.

Sack Cut Suit -
Sack cut suits are least attractive of all the suits. They are shapeless and are common for on the rack suits. The jackets flow straight down from the shoulders in a shapeless sack like shape. The body of the suit is roomy and typically has a single center vent. Classic sack suits are three-button suits, but now they are made in many different variations. The sack suit was originated in America by large retailers who needed to make a suit that fit everyone. J. Press is one of the most high profile makers of the Sack cut suit. The modern version of the sack suit is now a little more tailored, but it is still designed to fit the masses. It is the least flattering of the three suits, since it is designed to fit everyone it in turn fits no one.

Style Profile - Gianni Agnelli

Gianni Agnelli - 1921-2003 - Head of Fiat

Popularized and epitomized Italian Sprezzatura fashion. Sprezzatura meaning "Artful Dishevelment", was accomplished by Agnelli by wearing his watch over his shirt cuff, twisting his tie, wearing no shoes or interesting shoes (see the boots below) and wearing short ties. Agnelli also wore beautifully tailored Caraceni suits that fit him perfectly, matching those suits with the Sprezzatura elements.

Gianni Agnelli played with the subtle elements of his outfits, while following the rules on the basics of his outfit. Notice how his suits are made out of great materials and tailored to fit him perfectly. The suits are always appropriate, which allow him to wear a shorter than normal tie, or wear his watch over his cuff.

Agnelli played up the sprezzatura elements of his outfits to disconcert his rivals and to allow others to misjudge his competence. Agnelli capitalized on his competitions under estimation.

Gianni Agnelli's ability to dress with style and become a style icon should be studied. As Agnelli would want you to remember, keep it stylish but non-chalant, keep it classic, keep it personalized, keep it fun.

No Socks Kinda

A great look that you will see in all of the fashion magazines, blogs, runways and anywhere else in the city is the absence of socks. As Thom Browne says "ankles are the male cleavage". Wearing no socks with properly tailored shoes and a nice pair of well polished Oxfords is a great look, especially for summer, late spring and early fall. In Los Angeles and other fair weathered cities, it could almost be done year around.

One problem with the look is comfort. Its really uncomfortable to wear no socks with a nice pair of dress shoes, plus your feet sweat more and slip around in the shoe leaving blisters. But finally the answer is here: ankle socks. Goodhew makes a pair of the no show ankle socks as does Johnston & Murphy. The picture above I am wearing the no show sock (Johnston & Murphy), which gives me the comfort I need to deliver the look I want.

Oxfords vs. Blucher - The distinction is key

Every man needs a pair of Oxford's in his closet. They are the most versatile and dressy shoe a man can own. They are the go to Wedding shoe, Interview shoe, Funeral shoe and if you don't have a true formal shoe the only shoe in the closet appropriate for Black Tie events. They are classy, simple and go with any suit, can be worn with business casual and with jeans. (Pictured above is a Bruno Magli Cap Toe Oxford). But please do not confuse the Oxford with the Blucher.

The Blucher is a casual shoe. It was originally designed to be worn on weekends and is a setup down from the Oxford. It is less elegant and very limited in its use. It can only properly be worn with business casual. It is not be worn with a suit, on an interview, wedding or funeral. And it must never be worn to a black tie event. The worst thing about Bluchers and Oxfords is that most shoe companies mislabel Bluchers as Oxfords. Search for a Cap Toe Oxford online and your search results will be inundated with Bluchers. Do these companies, which make and sell shoes for a living even know the difference? Do they care?

The distinction is simple. Pictured below are two examples of Bluchers mascerading as Oxfords (Giorgio Brutini on top and Johnston & Murphy on the bottom). The difference is how the laces are connected to the vamp. The Vamp is main front portion of the shoe. On a Blucher the laces are placed directly on top of the vamp. On an Oxford the vamp covers the laces creating a throat line. (Here is a great diagraphm of the anatomy of an Oxford). By having the vamp cover the laces and the creation of a throat line, the Oxford has a more finished and polished look. It ends up with a more sophisticated look which allows the shoes to be more a functions that require best dressed attire.

Next time you go shopping beaware of difference and choose appropriately. Go for an Oxford and leave the Bluchers for everyone else.

Persol sunglasses

Like a lot of the best things in fashion, Persols are made in Italy. The
name comes from Italian "Per Sol", meaning "For the Sun". Persols are the
best made sunglasses in the world. They have the style you'd expect from a
classic and the amenities you'd except from a luxury brand. Persols also
focus on making glasses, so they are as focused on the utilitarian function
of the glasses as much as the fashionable look. Throw into the mix that
they have been worn by some of the coolest men in the world and you can
understand why they are legendary.

Steve McQueen wore the infamous blue lens Persol 714 in the Thomas Crown
affair. James Bond (Roger Craig) wore two different pairs of Persols in
Casino Royale (pictured are the Persol 2720). Persols have also been donned
by other celebrities: Jack Nicholson, Richard Gere, Paul Newman, Roberto
Rossellini, Cindy Crawford, Nicolas Cage, Pierce Brosnan, Brad Pitt,
Angelina Jolie, Christian Slater, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Heath Ledger, Al
Pacino, George Clooney and Adrien Brody.

Persols are recognized by the classic metal hinge which looks stylish as
well as adds support to the folding arms. Each arm is designed with two to
four lines on it. These lines are utilitarian in nature making the arms
bend to prevent damage when you sit on them, or your child squeezes them.
Steve McQueen's Persol 714s even have hinges built in the bridge and the
arms, so they can be carried easily in a pocket.

Let us here at DF know if you have any other favorite glasses or sunglasses
brands.